My Car Died =[ Options
HolyJaw
#1 Posted: : Sunday, July 04, 2010 9:34:50 PM
Rank: Fecal Impaction For the Win!

Groups: Ogamer, Registered User

Joined: 5/9/2006
Posts: 1,666
Points: 2,478
Location: La Habra, Orange, CA
I don't know jack shit about cars. Let's get that out of the way. I haven't ever changed my own oil nor have I had the confidence to jack up my car to change the filter to begin with.

So, that's done. Now: the story.

I listen to music loudly when I drive. Yesterday, as I was driving to work, I was taking the 405 and just as I hit the offramp, my power steering died. What? I stopped at the red light and when it turned green, I hit the accelerator. Nothing happened. Shit... I turn off my car... turn it on... and it turns on. But there's this loud knock-knock-knocking noise. By this point I've turned off my music. I accelerate... she moves but... still... every time I accelerate... knock-knock-knock. I get about a minute out of this, and thank heavens it was 730AM on a Saturday Morning in Irvine. The engine has stopped again. Turn it on, knock-knock-knock, move for about a minute, die. I do this about four times just coasting as much as possible to get off the road, parked in the structure, and to work before I'm late. FML.

I check the dipstick (that knock-knock-knocking sounds suspiciously like an un-oiled set of pistons in the engine to my uneducated brain.) As I thought: dipstick is dry. Now I know enough about cars to know that oil should be kept on top of... but I usually never let it get to the point where the light comes on. And the light sure didn't come on. (Probably has to do with the fact that the last time I added oil, I forgot to put the cap back on so oil kind of got everywhere. This was more than a month ago. Also explains why I ran out of oil so suspiciously fast.)

So, you know, two jobs and all, I have absolutely zero time to take this fucker in. I've got half an hour to get from job 1 to job 2, Irvine to Anaheim Hills, and find a ride to take me, too.

So I had my sister cart my ass around and I bought 4 qt. of oil, put it in, turn her on. Knock-knock-knocking still. Give it a few. Same deal. That was yesterday.

Today, tried it again. Maybe it needed time to seep in? Knock-knock-knocking.

So, my car's sitting at the Spectrum still... just waiting for me to get her towed away. And I probably won't have time to get her towed to a repair shop till Tues/Thurs.

In the meantime... any suggestions?

Phrases thrown around by people around me:
Frozen pistons
Dead battery
Bad alternator
You're a moron
Get a new car

So, yeah.

She's a 2000 Civic so... parts shouldn't cost much but labor always does.
silverwasp wrote:
Be careful what you wish for... I have 10 younger siblings and I am only 20....

Yes.... Same parents


WarMachine wrote:
meh...maybe if he hadn't been handed a burning house he could have done great things, but right now he has won the Prize for what? Damage Control?
Cantrip
#2 Posted: : Monday, July 05, 2010 12:14:02 PM
Rank: Admiral OCD



Groups: {pDs} Member, Moderator, News Editor, Newsie

Joined: 5/9/2006
Posts: 3,491
Points: 1,346
Location: Parallel Universe
From the Internets on what happens if you run a car without oil:

"First the engine temperature rises, carbonizing the existing oil, the added viscosity slows the flow of oil and the temperature begins to rise more rapidly. Friction continuously increases, creating more heat which causes more overheating of the engine, and finally seizing or extreme wear of the metal components. If it continues to run at all, it will be with loud knocking of worn-out bearings until total internal destruction. "

Not helpful, but the loud knocking can be explained by the above.

I'm not a mechanic, but that last part should probably say the engine seizes up.

You should be more like Cantrip.



Twitchy: "I pulled a Cantrip . . ."
GivePeaceAChance: "If the Tempest had nipples, I'd pinch that shit."
Xylicon: "I'm about to deliver my [Richard] in your face for posting that stupid shit. "
WDF?: "He keeps reaming me... night after night... I'm rather sore."
GivePeaceAChance: "OMG MY NIPS ARE HARD"
llenta: "cantrip, you fail!!!"
Filliam H. Muffman: "i'm on top of dick"
Rikaelus
#3 Posted: : Monday, July 05, 2010 6:12:51 PM
Rank: Administration



Groups: {pDs} Member, Registered User, Server Admin, Administration

Joined: 3/27/2008
Posts: 1,793
Points: 3,380
Location: Arizona
My guess would be the alternator, maybe. It'd explain the noise when you start it up and it has something to do with regulating power from the battery, which might explain your power steering going out.

It's also a part, in my experience, that breaks rather easily.

tpractice
#4 Posted: : Monday, July 05, 2010 8:03:49 PM
Rank: Fuckstick

Groups: {pDs} Member, Server Admin

Joined: 5/9/2006
Posts: 775
Points: 381
Engine knocking is never a good sound especially if you show no oil on the dipstick. Could have broken a timing belt, still bad as the cam stops moving and drives the valves into the cylinder.

If you find that you “threw” a rod or similar carnage, it’s a rebuilt or replace.

Given it’s a 2000 civic, you probably don’t want to put to much into it, so a few years ago, I knew someone in a similar situation and was able to pick up a decent complete engine from a junk yard for $400.00 and ~ $100.00 in parts, replaced the entire engine. The quotes to rebuild the broken motor was between $3000-$4000.

BTW, you are probably looking for a 1.6 liter sohc 4 cylinder, 16 valve. If you have an EX, then look for the Vtec version
Frostbite
#5 Posted: : Wednesday, July 07, 2010 7:33:04 AM
Rank: You're gonna stick that where?


Groups: {pDs} Member, Registered User

Joined: 4/25/2008
Posts: 377
Points: 867
Yea that sound is never a good sound to hear in a car


One of my first cars had a sound like that happen but slightly different and much more funny

We were driving home in this small 2 door pos i got for cheap and coming down a large hill the engine made a really loud POP/BANG sound. Followed by the sounds of hundreds of little bolts/metal pieces tinkling on the road behind me

"Well....That's not good"

It ran for about 2 minutes more before dieing just a mile away from home
it doesn't change the fact that most people think Jews are much like the Ferengi of Star Trek. More interested in acquiring "profits" than anything else. -Erkdog

Shut the fuck up Frostbite, I know what i am doing i been playing TF2 for 8 fucking years i know how to run my damn servers-Erkdog

More pearls from Erkdog
I say we let him back on the forums.
lol epic
HolyJaw
#6 Posted: : Wednesday, July 07, 2010 4:49:59 PM
Rank: Fecal Impaction For the Win!

Groups: Ogamer, Registered User

Joined: 5/9/2006
Posts: 1,666
Points: 2,478
Location: La Habra, Orange, CA
So I took it to the dealer for diagnostic. Here's the email he sent me:

1 Replace long block w/ new pressure plate, clutch disc, resurface $4103.00
flywheel, bearing, coolant, oil and filter, timing belt, and labor

So.... yeah. tpractice you were spot fucking on.

My big dilemma is even if I get a new/used engine... where would I go to get it put in? Is that most of the labor?
silverwasp wrote:
Be careful what you wish for... I have 10 younger siblings and I am only 20....

Yes.... Same parents


WarMachine wrote:
meh...maybe if he hadn't been handed a burning house he could have done great things, but right now he has won the Prize for what? Damage Control?
tpractice
#7 Posted: : Friday, July 09, 2010 7:55:49 PM
Rank: Fuckstick

Groups: {pDs} Member, Server Admin

Joined: 5/9/2006
Posts: 775
Points: 381
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebay...amp;hash=item2c5586d81a

This is an example, $495.00 for a complete engine less transaxle

DESCRIPTION




ZC SOHC 16 VALVE 1.6 LITER USED JAPANESE ENGINE / JDM (JAPANESE DOMESTIC MARKET)



APPLICATION / YEARS / MODELS




88-91 HONDA CIVIC SI

88-95 HONDA CIVIC DX & LX (to upgrade the engine from 1.5 liter to 1.6 liter)



THIS IS THE ACTUAL ENGINE UP FOR AUCTION WITH SERIAL NUMBER 6217795

AS SEEN IN THESE PICTURES






SPECIAL ATTENTION:

once item is officially sold. The actual pictures of the engine or transmission is automatically removed from our server.

please print the pictures for your reference.



INFORMATION ABOUT THE ENGINE




This Engine is a high quality low mileage used engine that was directly imported from Japan. (JDM-Japanese Domestic Market)

Engine has an average miles of 40-60k only. Engines have been compression, oil pressure, leak down test and inspected for any

Internal faulty parts. Each unit is fully tested in order to meet Our strict quality standard and have been steam washed and ready

to be ship. In order to maintain Our engines at top quality, We proudly apply NOXUDOL700 a Solvent free Rust protection

chemical into each cylinder to protect then from rust.



Engines complete with accessories may not comply with the emission control laws of the state in which it is being sold or used
State / federal authorities require that you change over the necessary emission devices from your old engine to the engine
you are installing to make it comply. The add-on parts (accessories) on the engine sold by us are left attached for testing

purpose only, and for your convenience and are free of charge. The purchase price represents the cost of the long block only. (intake/exhaust manifolds, carburetor or EFI, distributor, starter, emission control devices, flywheel, clutch, pressure plate,

water pump, thermostat, belts hoses, cam gears, sprockets, timing belt, tensioners, pulleys, and etc. are free of charge and

need to be change.)



Some engines may require more changes than what we have already described above. Please contact us if you have any
questions regarding this engine. Please call (800)598-3535



SHIPPING INFORMATION




We ship to business or commercial address only. Engine requires unloading facility such as unloading dock or forklift. in the

event that you don't have access to a business or commercial address, We can arrange with the trucking company to hold

the engine at the local and nearest available terminal to Your zip code. All buyers or winners must provide us Their contact

number (Phone number) and shipping address. Engine will NOT be ship until We have verify with the customers.



NOTE: No residential or military base delivery available.



Free delivery to the greater Los Angeles Area only / Also Customers can pick the the merchandise at Our facility (North

Hollywood CA 91605)



NOTE: California customers need to add 9.75% sales tax (except when customers have Resale number)



COST
DELIVER TIME
Delivery Area (48 States) Business or Commercial address only
$ 125.00 2-3 Working Days AZ CA NV
$ 165.00 3-4 Working Days CO ID MT NM OR UT WA WY
$ 185.00 4-5 Working Days IA IL KS MN NE ND SD OK TX WI
$ 205.00 5-6 Working Days AL AR DE GA IN KY MD MI MO MS NC NJ TN OH PA SC VA WV
$ 235.00 6-7 Working Days CT FL LA MA ME NH NY RI VT

Delivery time is estimated and base on trucking company. actual days may vary.

WARRANTY and POLICIES




Engines come with 6 months and unlimited miles warranty from the Date of purchase.

(except for high performance and diesel engines)



Warranty covers solely on long block / Head and Block only

We don't warranty external parts such as: Intake and Exhaust manifold, timing belts, water pump, distributor, starter, carburetor,

or EFI system, seals, pulleys, flywheels and etc.



NO WARRANTY ON OVER HEATED ENGINE

Our warranty does NOT cover labor cost and Shipping charges



PAYMENT


Now about the labor


PAYMENT is due within 3 days of the auction end. We accept VISA, MASTER CARD, AMEX and DISCOVERY CARD

SPECIAL ATTENTION and INSTALLATION GUIDELINES




In order to comply with your local emission / or smog regulations, We suggest that you replace all the outer components
(accessories) from your engine to the Japanese engine. When installing the engine. We advice you inspect and replace the
following parts if necessary. Such as: water pump, thermostat and belts drive. Failure to follow these suggestions may result
to blow the head gasket due to overheating. (We do not warranty overheated engines)



CONTACT INFORMATION


If you have any questions about this engine, please email us at mailto:SKNEBAY1@SOSHINUSA.COM

or call us at toll Free number 1-800-598-3535 Fax: (818)308-8427

Business hours (PST): Monday to Friday 8:00 AM to 5:00 PM Saturday 9:00 AM to 3:00 PM

ABOUT US




SOKEN TRADE CORPORATION was established in 1994 and was situated in Gardena CA. and until June 2006 the company

moved to North Hollywood CA to able to served our customers better. We are direct importer of Japanese engines and

Transmissions from Japan. We carry a complete line of high premium quality Engines and Transmissions. We stock a large

inventory for fast delivery and shipping.



Engines and Transmissions are inspected by ASE certified technicians for quality control to ensure quality and performance,

each unit is compression tested and oil pressure tested and thoroughly inspected by our highly trained ASE Certified Technician.



CONTACT INFORMATION




SOKEN TRADE CORPORATION

12055 SHERMAN WAY

NORTH HOLLYWOOD, CA 91605



TEL. (800) 598-3535

FAX: (818) 308-8427

E-MAIL: SKNEBAY1@SOSHINUSA.COM


tpractice
#8 Posted: : Friday, July 09, 2010 8:25:08 PM
Rank: Fuckstick

Groups: {pDs} Member, Server Admin

Joined: 5/9/2006
Posts: 775
Points: 381
http://orangecounty.crai...org/pts/1819762846.html

This would be nice if it's a manual transmission. You would not have to mess with the clutch. Yes, most of the cost is labor. How many miles did you have on the car? I see many in that year range going between $4000-6000.00.

http://shop.ebay.com/i.h...trksid=p3286.m270.l1313

The link above is for an engine swap manual.

If you can find a mechanic(a friend or family member might know of one) that needs work and you already have a complete engine, the mechanic can actually go with you to check out the motor or he might know of one in a junk yard somewhere(cheapest route). $1500.00 Max on labor, probably less, in the $750.00-1000.00 range.

Removing the engines in these cross mounted small cars is a pain. When the engine is finally out, there won't be much car left in the front. I got so pissed at a GEO Storm trying to get the engine out with an engine hoist(due to the angles), I put my arms around the engine and phyically pulled the engine out.
HolyJaw
#9 Posted: : Saturday, July 10, 2010 9:28:14 PM
Rank: Fecal Impaction For the Win!

Groups: Ogamer, Registered User

Joined: 5/9/2006
Posts: 1,666
Points: 2,478
Location: La Habra, Orange, CA
Wow dude holy crap great finds man, I really appreciate it.

Well my car's an EX with 185K miles on it so the eBay engine wouldn't work, although I imagine the craigslist one would. I"m pretty sure I"m just gonna sell it to one of the mechanics at the dealer that expressed interest. Wonderful how potential conflict of interest caused the cost of repairs to be $4K and the mechanic only wants to give me $500. I'm holding out for about $2000 since he said the amount of work amounts to about $1500 total were he to do it himself. KBB puts it at about $3000 Private Party Value so.. I dunno. Time is of the essence.
silverwasp wrote:
Be careful what you wish for... I have 10 younger siblings and I am only 20....

Yes.... Same parents


WarMachine wrote:
meh...maybe if he hadn't been handed a burning house he could have done great things, but right now he has won the Prize for what? Damage Control?
Users browsing this topic
Guest
Forum Jump  
You cannot post new topics in this forum.
You cannot reply to topics in this forum.
You cannot delete your posts in this forum.
You cannot edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You cannot vote in polls in this forum.